Id say quark might win this one still indesign is bloated and has a terrible interface complexity issues and is buggy, I use to get my more dtp pages produced in a shorter period of time in Quark 3.5 as a freelancer then i have in any of the later incarnations of either quark or indesign. Indesign has only got worse in my opinion since its awkward birth, the reason why people left quark for indesign in the first place was only because it was buggy as hell in mac os x and needed a rewrite, the interface if it had worked properly was still the best. And recently working for a client it screwed a load of CS2 document master pages up when the CS2 documents were brought in to CS3.