Id say quark might win this one still indesign is bloated and has a terrible interface complexity issues and is buggy, I use to get my more dtp pages produced in a shorter period of time in Quark 3.5 as a freelancer then i have in any of the later incarnations of either quark or indesign. Indesign has only got worse in my opinion since its awkward birth, the reason why people left quark for indesign in the first place was only because it was buggy as hell in mac os x and needed a rewrite, the interface if it had worked properly was still the best. And recently working for a client it screwed a load of CS2 document master pages up when the CS2 documents were brought in to CS3.
NeuralMap
Where my mind is wont to probe and rant about
Turns out there is an arcane hidden keyboard shortcut, “Ctrl Shift click” on item analogy, used to access / modify those master items now in CS3. Why you cant just click on them and start modifying away from the master seems odd to me ? Pity I wasnt informed about this, It would have saved me allot of grief with the client i was working with.